“Smyrna… What incredible wealth!” Such were the words of the Czar Alexander the 1st of Russia to Napoleon, on the 12th of March 1808, when they were planning how to split the Ottoman Empire between them. Smyrna, this incredible wealthy city, was not only rich in trade and gold however: it is rich in one of the most complex European histories.
Smyrna was founded around 700 B.C. by Greek colonists. It quickly became one of the most prestigious cities of the Greek Empire, the birthplace of the Greek poet Homer and modern mathematics. The Roman Empire took over the city during its expansion, and transformed it into “a jewel of the Empire”, building numerous temples and an immense antique theater. Under Christianity, Smyrna was once again a key city, as one of the very first churches was built there by Saint Paul himself.
Traders entering Smyrna on Camels
The real reason for its uniqueness however, lies in its port. Smyrna’s port was vast and deep, allowing large vessels to easily moor off its coast and trade. In 1574, Istanbul, the capital of Turkey, suffered from severe supply problems as all the merchant vessels going there decided to stop in a city where they could get better prices: Smyrna.
Its growing wealth transformed Smyrna into an international city, as consuls from France, the United Kingdom, Italy and Spain set up residence there. But more than anything, Smyrna was allowed a freedom like no other city in the world. When all of Europe was becoming fiercely religious, Smyrna was allowed a “total religious freedom”. In 1700, Smyrna had 19 mosques, three catholic churches, two Greek orthodox churches, two Armenian churches and 8 synagogues.
Smyrna Sporting Club – A Cafe and Clubhouse
It is little surprise that this religious freedom led to a creative and artistic revolution in Smyrna. Smyrna created its unique music: Smyrnaika, which mixed Western and Eastern sounds and focused on the torments of love and the suffering of the working men. Smyrna also developed its unique architecture, of Levantine heritage, with oppulent villas in warm pastel colors and architectural details imported directly from the most beautiful houses in Paris.
The Smyrna Opera House
In 1875, the French company Dussaud Freres finished building the “Cordon”, Smyrna’s Bund, on which were rapidly built a luxurious entertainment industry. Luxury hotels, such as Hotel Craemer, the opera, and cafes and theaters such as the Cafe de Paris and the Sporting Club became regular favorites. Every night would see couples on a walk on the Cordon, stopping for a drink, relaxing music and sometimes a show.
Smyrna, however, was above all a city of trade. Walking on the docks or down the shopping alleys would lead visitors to hear dozens of languages, ranging from French, Italian and Greek to Hebrew, Turkish and Armenian. Stores were filled with the most exotic goods: silk and opium, imported from the East, mirrors and cutlery from the West. The streets were filled with camels loaded with merchandise coming in from the interior, and sailors on day-leave from the boats from which they had disembarked. Among all of these incredible goods, Smyrna’s own industry flourished and its reputation grew: its unique figs, incredible olives, and beautiful flowers.